The History of Absinthe

Courtesy of Absinthe Buyers Guide

Absinthe was the drink of choice among artist and writers in the mid to late 19th century. It inspired poets and appeared in works by Pablo Picasso and Vincent Van Gogh. It was drank by the scandalous playwright Oscar Wilde, the eccentric Toulouse-Lautrec, the poets Charles Baudelaire and Edgar Allen Poe, and the famous 20th century author Ernest Hemingway, just to mention a few.

By the end of the 19th century, grape phylloxera had destroyed two-thirds of the vineyards on the continent of Europe. The price of wine skyrocketed and was soon in short supply. The Aristocrats bought and consumed what was available, leaving the middle-class "a bourgeoisie" of artisans and tradesmen searching for a cheaper alternative. Absinthe was already growing in popularity and was a perfect alternative, being a distilled spirit, it was much stronger than wine and had a mysterious effect that heightened the senses. It was perfect for the emerging Bohemian culture growing in Europe. It became so popular that in the cafes of Paris, the cocktail hour was known as "L'Heure Verte," the Green Hour.

As its popularity grew, so did public hysteria over its mysterious effects and drunkenness. Absinthe was the subject of many studies into alcoholism, at the time it was referred to as Absinthism. Its use was even considered a ticket to the insane asylum. In August 1905, Jean Lanfray, a Swiss farmer and known absinthe drinker, shot his entire family. The story made headlines around Europe, proclaiming that he was under the influence of absinthe, and ignored the fact that he had consumed several bottles of wine and other spirits during the course of his day. Absinthe was eventually banned in many countries around the world. Commercial production in Switzerland ended around 1910, and in 1914 for France. The United States banned absinthe in 1912.

According to history, or perhaps myth, the elixir of wormwood was originally developed by Dr. Pierre Ordinaire in 1789. He was a French doctor who was living in the Suisse town of Couvet. The doctor was in self-exile due to political reasons from the Franche-Comte region. It was said that he discovered the plant wormwood (Artemisia Absinthium) while traveling in the Val-de-Travers. He mixed wormwood and other herbs with alcohol to create his 136 proof elixir, which he employed in his treatment of the sick and retched. After many claims of miraculous healing powers, it became a panacea or cure-all. It was eventually nicknamed, "la Fee Verte", which means the Green Fairy.

It was believed that Dr.Ordinaire bequeathed his recipe to Mademoiselle Grand-Pierre, who supposedly sold it to two sisters named Henroid in Couvet. However, historical information suggests that the Henroid sisters were making the elixir before the Doctor arrived in the area. The doctor is credited with being one of the first to promote la Fee Verte. The Henroid sisters exploited the elixir commercially. They offered samples of the elixir to be sold in nearby pharmacies. In 1797, they sold their recipe to a Frenchman named Major Dubied. In that same year, the Major's daughter "Emilie" married Henri-Louis Pernod. The Major, his son Marcellin, and Pernod built the first commercial absinthe distillery in Couvet under the name of "Dubied Pere et Fils", which begin producing the first commercial absinthe in 1798.

In 1805 Pernod opened a larger factory across the border on the main street in Pontarlier France under the corporate name of "Maison Pernod Fils". One of the reasons for the move was to avoid the high import taxes at the French border. The main street facility operated two stills producing approximately 16 liters of absinthe per day. As popularity grew, Pernod’s youngest son, "Louis" purchased land to build a second factory. By the mid 1850s, the plant had grown to produce 20,000 liters per day. At the height of production, they produced 30,000 liters per day and distributed absinthe to many ports around the world.

Absinthe is a drink that contains a high-level of alcohol, typically 68%. The most important ingredient of Absinthe is the herb wormwood (Artemisia Absinthium); it is what sets it apart from other drinks and is how it acquired its name. The essential oils in wormwood contains the chemical Thujone, which is a toxin when taken in large amounts. Thujone is said to be responsible for Absinthe's mysterious effects. Other ingredients include; roman wormwood, star anise, anise seed, hyssop, angelica root, calamis root, fennel, coriander, licorice root, lemon balm, dittany, and sweet flag. Absinthe is most often described as having the flavor of liquorice.

Traditionally, Absinthe is prepared by pouring cold water over a cube of sugar resting on a slotted spoon. The cold water dissolves the sugar while diluting the green Absinthe. The sugar helped to mask the bitterness of the absinthium and other oils. As ice cold water mixes with the absinthe, it clouds, this effect is called the, "louche," pronounced "loosh." The louche occurs when the essential oils are not able to disperse in the water, therefore creating a clouding effect. The mix ratio is according to preference, usually 3 to 5 parts water to 1 part absinthe.

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